Throtl Video Transcript

[Applause] thank you This is an F-22 C1 out of our ap2 Honda S2000 we’ve got it fully disassembled here we’re going to be rebuilding it and let’s look at the parts we’re going to be using we have a lot of OEM Honda parts here on the table we’re doing

Pretty much just an oem Refresh on this engine we’re going to be upgrading a few things while we’re in here to start we have an oem oil pump this is brand new from Honda we have a lower main seal kit so this is all the bottom end gaskets as

Well which is really good new timing guides we’re going to be redoing all the timing on this thing this is a cylinder head gasket and kind of the top end gasket so literally everything on the top end of the engine is going to be brand new we have new OEM Honda piston

Rings this engine actually has a forged Piston from Factory which is awesome for what we’re going to be doing we are going to be putting a Grady turbo kit on this engine we have a new timing tensioner a new timing chain as well as an oil pump chain assembly is new as

Well we do have new main bolts for the crankshaft and a set of ARP cylinder head studs so we’re going to be putting a stud in this thing to hold it down better more clamping ports on the cylinder head is going to handle the Boost pressures very nicely we also have

ARP connect Rod bolts instead of the factory bolts we’re going to be upgrading those we have a set of ACL race bearings main rod and thrust I’ve had great success with all ACL bearings everything we’ve put them in has worked out exceptionally well we’re going to be doing some basic maintenance items we

Have a new water pump here and a new thermostat we have a k n oil filter that’s going to be going on and we have some good multiple braking engine oil because we’re going to be rebuilding this engine the Rings need to be seated and the bearings and everything just

Needs to be kind of worn in while we run the engine for the first time and this engine oil is going to help us to do that something like a synthetic isn’t really ideal for braking in an engine especially with a new set of rings because it’s going to wear and it’s

Going to wear match the ring to the bore and you want a little that is built for that I’ve used Moto breaking oil on a few engines around here with great success if you guys are going to be rebuilding an engine you need to run break in oil for the first few minutes

Of the engine running and a motool braking oil is amazing and so we’re going to be using it on this engine we’ve used it on a few engines around here the throttle shop with excellent success so we’re going to keep on baby let’s go so as far as the parts that

Came with the engine we haven’t done a whole lot to it we’ve changed a few things most of what we’ve been doing is cleaning so we’ve been using our dry ice blasting machine to clean just all the gunk and crap off everywhere time to cover the lower Pan the block everything

Looks beautiful we did send the cylinder head out to get machined it’s got a nice fresh cut on it as well as inspected everything looks really good with it we added an oil pan of baffle it’s a welding baffle so one of the main problems with the f-22s and the f20cs is

Oil starvation if you’re going to be taking this car on track something like a really long Bank turn they can oil starve and so we’ve added this whole baffle whoever wins this car wants to take it on track they absolutely can they’re not going to have any issues

With it aside from that we’ve just been cleaning up we’ve cleaned up the Pistons got the old rings out two of the cylinders were starting to show signs that the oil control Rings were starting to seize which is not good so we’ve got that all cleaned up and our new rings

Are going to take care of that so overall these Pistons are in excellent shape I have no problem reusing them and they’re forged from the factory which is really cool so we haven’t done a whole lot to the engine block this block is actually in really good shape you’ve

Cleaned it up I’ve cleaned up the deck we’ve dry ice blasted the whole thing and it looks absolutely beautiful we did not send this engine block in for machine work you guys know when we usually do engine belts here we’re throwing a piston and a connecting rod

We will send the engine block in to get machined and have the Piston skirt clearance so the bore clearance correct but because we’re using a factory piston this actually has an frm liner or the cylinder bores rfrm we don’t want to damage the bores and everything looks

Really good so we’re going to leave it as is there’s really no reason to send it to machine shop if we don’t have to let alone have them destroy or damage the boards and the bore spec should be where it needs to be this was an excellent running engine when we pulled

It apart however we’re going to begin our work by doing a lot of measurements I have a dial board gauge here we’re going to be checking each individual bore for taper and wear and then we’re going to move on to the crank and start measuring our journals because that

Hasn’t been out to the Machine Shop either because we don’t need any work to it so let’s get out the dial indicators and the micrometers start doing some measurements and then we’ll put this engine together Right here the bottom is actually what sweeps our micrometer up top so if this is parallel it’s going to be the shortest measurement between those two points so if I sweep it to the side if that measurement between these two spaces gets longer and the same thing if

I rotate it this way so when I put it in there and I’ll kind of roll it back and forth and you’ll see the needle sweep and where it’s at it’s zero spot which is where I zeroed it is the shortest distance which is actually our board

Measurement let’s give it a little sweep you’ll see it come up and then it kind of stops and then it starts going the other direction so next up we have our crankshaft here and we’re just going to give it a quick visual inspection we’re also going to be

Using some micrometers to measure the journals and make sure everything’s copacetic with it so first of all everything looks good I don’t see any significant scoring at all we had a little bit of scratches and bearing material in the original bearings when we took this engine apart it picked up

Something but the bearing did its job and kind of absorbed the contaminant which is good I don’t really see any damage on these journals we don’t have any excessive scoring so I’m just kind of running my finger along everything usually if you’ll have like a scored Journal you can catch it with your

Finger now or you’ll notice it but these things look really good so we’re going to take our mics and we’re going to measure everything and make sure that we don’t have an undersized or an oversized Journal here and everything is pretty consistent and then once we do that this

Thing will be ready to go in the car We’re in good shape for the crankshaft we have a little bit of variation but nothing that is out of the ordinary everything is really good here it looks in Spec all of our measurements are spot on and this crankshaft is ready to go back in the engine let’s move on to piston rings

Foreign next up we’re going to be checking our piston ring gaps so here we have brand new OEM Honda piston rings we’re going to be reusing the Pistons these are our forged piston Factory which is really cool so we’re going to open them up check our end Gap because this is going

To be essentially a turbo Street engine we’re going to be running pretty much Factory gaps typically on something like the Eclipse engine or the super engine where we’re going to be pushing A lot of power in really high boost you’d want to open the ring Gap up simply because the

Ring Gap pretty much determines how much heat the cylinder can take so when it’s in there you can look in there and you see that little Gap so that’s your ring end Gap essentially now this one isn’t 100 set up because I haven’t pushed it in and set it flat yet but essentially

That Gap is there for space so when the engine starts getting hot that ring Gap will close up and seal the Piston if you start introducing a lot of heat into the engine the piston rings can actually touch and that’s essentially a catastrophic failure of the engine

Because when they touch they have no more room to grow and so instead of growing into the Gap like they’re supposed to it’ll touch it’ll continue expanding and then the ring will go up or down and it will literally blow the skirt of the Piston apart and blow the

Ring lands up and so a lot of times it just destroys everything you have a piston failure so if we were to run a stock ring Gap and extremely high boost like something on a mark 4 super where we’re pushing about a thousand horsepower the ring Gap would be too

Tight and it would explode but since we’re running moderate power level through this engine and it is going to be a street car we’re not going to be pushing excessive power through it a stock ring Gap is going to get us where we need to be and we’re going to replace

Some of these things we’re going to run just fine fuel5 is presented by throttle is coming up quick June 3rd at Irwindale Speedway the entire throttle team is going to be there we’re bringing all the cars the super the eclipse the Civic the S2000 is going to get debuted there

We’re also giving away a set of wheels at the throttle Booth so stop by if you guys want to save money on a set of tickets hit the link in the description we’ll see you guys there let’s get back to these piston rings oh Our piston ring and gaps are in good shape very consistent for being out of the box I didn’t have to adjust anything which is good now we’re going to kind of experiment a little bit I think we may have to stray away from the standard way of assembling an engine which typically

You’ll drop the crank in Bolt the crank down and then you’ll drop your piston and connect your rods in my fear here is that the Cradle here takes up so much real estate that I don’t know with the crank in place I’m gonna be able to get my hands

Around it to pull the connecting rod up so I’m going to throw the main bearings on this drop the crank in and just kind of see how much space it takes up because once we Bolt the crank down it’s bolted down we can’t move it if I can’t

Feed the connecting rod bearing and all that stuff up to the top it’s going to be a big issue so we’re going to drop our main bearings on drop the crank on mock this on here and see if it’s doable if not we’ll put the rings on our piston

Put them in the block with the crankshaft out and then install the crank after so let’s get our main bearings on Thank you our main bearings are on these are our thrust washers so we’re going to pop these guys on like that and look at that and when we actually Bolt the Cradle down all this stuff is going to be lubricated but for now since I just want to see what it does the

Moment of truth because I don’t think I’m gonna be able to fit my hands in there it’s going to be tight I think we’ll be okay we’re gonna put the crank on if it doesn’t work out it sucks to be me Everything is nice and lubed up we’re going to drop our crankshaft in get it bolted down with our cradle and let’s go foreign I like to put the roommate and seal on so we’re going to do that right now because we can and it’s nice and easy Our forming Place gasket is set now it’s time to torque our main caps down and then we will torque the rest of the cradle and then start throwing some pistons in this is a half inch torque wrench by Eastwood this one’s really cool it measures pound feet as well as

Torque angle which is perfect because we need to torque angle these so we have to do 22 pound feet on each one and then we’re going 60 degrees and the make caps will be done Main caps are outside we’re going to tighten the Hardwares on the outside of the pan she still spins very nice which is a really good sign so we’re also going to put a dowel indicator on here and measure M thrust and play that should be with inspectors replace the

Thrust bearings and then we’ll start putting pistons in thank you money crank Time to install some piston rings look at these pistons in so we’re starting with cylinder one we’re going to do cylinder four because they’re sister pistons and we’ll do two and three so we’ve got our piston all cleaned up this engine had some crud in it as you guys

Know if you saw the breakdown the ring lands on the oil control ring just had a bunch of gunk in it so they were kind of starting to seize up so we have them all cleaned out now and we’re going to throw some new Honda rings on we’re going to

Start with the oil control ring and then we’re going to get into our compression rings All right so our piston rings are on and as you can see every single one of them just Glides around even the oil control ring super nicely so the oil control ring was actually stuck on cylinder two or three and I could I could not even rotate it

As you can see since we’ve cleaned it and put new rings on everything spins like butter which is what you want so we’re gonna put our ring gaps at kind of the standard orientation for installing piston rings the thing is when engines are running the Rings are rotating

Inside unless it’s a two-stroke so it’s not like it matters a ton but it’s just kind of good practice so we’ve got our second compression ring forward our rear compression ring back and then our oil control ring gaps on the side with a wavering kind of off center so let’s pop

This piston in foreign we’re in good shape we got two in we’re gonna go down here oh yeah now we actually have ARP hardware for the connecting rod look at that dude that’s what I’m talking about right there because we have ARP Hardware we can actually plasti gauge these because

They’re not torqued to yields so we’re going to put our rod bearing caps on drop them on with some plastic age double check that everything is good where it needs to be that’s why I like plastic gauge because even if you spend all the time measuring and miking all

That stuff it’s always really good to just double check at the last second that everything’s money so we’re going to do that Thank you We’ve got them all torqued our plastic gauges under the bearing getting crushed right now so we’re going to take it off and check it For between .0015 and zero zero two which is good so that is a little bit on the looser end of spec but it’s still within spec so we’re in good shape cylinder 4 is about the same as cylinder one was so very consistent clearances which makes me feel really good so we’re

Going to clean this off we’re going to lubricate the connecting rod bearings put these on torque them for the final time they move on to cylinder two and three thank you so we’re at bottom dead center for two and three now it’s time to put those pistons in Laughs Our four cylinder has four cylinders again look at that it’s all weird seeing them like they’re all almost at top dead center so we’re gonna push these two guys down one and two flip it over check the rod bearings Thank you this engine is being extremely consistent it’s this one’s at very consistent very good I like that happy with that so we’re going to put this back together with some lube torque everything down and then our rotating assembly will be finished Our rotating assembly is finished everything went together beautifully our thrust is in Spec our bearing specs are perfect and our ring gaps are where they need to be and everything is installed it spins freely feels good we’re gonna flip the block over put our oil pump on and start getting oil flowing through

This thing Now we’re going to do kind of a little bleed yeah we’re going to bleed it actually so I’m going to pour oil in the pickup and we’re going to start spinning the pump by hand to start getting fluid moving through it ideally we’re gonna go

Until oil is coming out of here all over the ground and then we’re going to take our brand new Canon oil filter to fill it up with engine oil throw it back on there and then keep spinning it until it starts coming out of other places and

That’s going to let me know that the oil pump is working that we have a little moving through the block foreign Next up it’s time for the cylinder head we have a brand new OEM Honda cylinder head gasket here and let’s uh let’s get this puppy on thank you next up we’re going to be selling our studs these are ARP head studs since we’re going to be boosting this thing is

Always a good idea to upgrade the hardware holding the cylinder head onto the block increased clamping force is always a good thing we’re gonna drop some studs on Our cylinder head is installed we got a new ARP head studs in everything’s nice and tight now we’re going to start throwing on some gears chains guides and then we’re going to get our camshafts in here get everything all timed up Thank you Our oil pump chain is installed we got our guides back on so now we’re going to start installing the timing chain setup on this thing it’s a little funky I’ve never timed one of these before so hopefully it goes well and we’re going to do it pretty much in the reverse

Order that took this thing apart so we’re going to put the new chain on our gear Slide the gear and get it bolted down put our guides on and then we’ll start working on our cams get your nose installed we’ll get everything timed up Thank you We have our timing chain on with our new guides I don’t have the tensioner in yet we’re going to put the cams in next make sure everything’s good and then we’ll put our tensioner in so for now I’m going to move our valve springs then we’ll get our rocker assemblies on here

And then we’ll start putting our cams on Friends We have our rocker VTEC assembly back on as well as our camshafts now I just need to tighten everything down so we’re going to throw you up on the tripod for that we’ve got our cams installed they are where they were when I took it apart we’ve got our chain installed

Everything’s ready to go so we’re going to check our timing so I’m going to put tension on the guide here because we don’t have our tensioner in yet that’s you that’s next but we’re going to spin it twice make sure we have top dead center still and if we’re good then we’re good Perfect we’re time baby let’s go Oh yeah oh yeah look at that that’s what I’m talking about time for some v-tec solenoids where’d it go here it is this is our oil control VTEC assembly essentially so this is the cylinder that kicks on and off the VTEC and we have oh it’s got a little filter in there we

Have a new gasket for it and then I can go on the engine and I want to prime it again so we can get oil through the head and the cams and all the stuff that it should be getting through Now that essentially everything in our oiling system is complete we are going to be changing a few things when we put the gravity turbo kit on but for now I want to flip it over I’m going to re-parm the engine oil and I want to wait till I start seeing oil coming out

Of the cams and all the things and all the places that all should be coming out or else coming out so this is like the last final prime before we put the timing cover the oil pan and everything back together and actually drop this in the car where we’ll all prime it with

The starter once we’re in so let’s do that Thank you our engine is fully oil primed if we’re going to put the timing cover back on but before we do that we’re going to throw a new OEM Honda front main seal on so it’s gonna be way easier to do this with the cover out of the car and so

We’re going to do that Thank you Finished installing our timing cover now we’re going to let the form in place gasket cure before we torque all of the bolts so while I’m waiting to do that I’m actually going to start adjusting the Lash on all of the valves these have rockers they have a mechanical lash

Adjuster on them so we’re going to adjust them get them into spec and then we’ll be essentially ready to throw our valve cover on be done with the top end of the engine so let’s go foreign Place gasket on our timing cover has finished curing so we’re going to go ahead and torque the timing cover down flip it over and install our newly baffled Oil Now before we put the RTV on and actually get our oil pan on I want to make sure it fits because we added a baffle inside so that guy is going to cure any oil starvation issues under high G Corner in your high load cornering and we need to make sure that

It actually fits which it does perfect let’s clean everything off and put our rtb on Our TV has cured for about half an hour so we’re going to go ahead and torque down all of the hardware that hold the oil pan on then we’ll move into our valve cover get our crank pulley on and we’ll be effectively done with the laundry box So now we’re going to throw our valve cover on gotta get our front crank pulley on and then we’re gonna start adding all sorts of fun stuff like the intake manifold and regrette turbo Thank you foreign Thank you And there we have it a completely rebuilt f-22c1 before we finish this video I want to get this thing fully dressed so we’re going to get our water pump our belts our alternator intake manifold all that stuff on so let’s get to it thank you I’ve got our water pump housing on and bolted down we’ve re-ran our cooler line we’re actually going to take the old water pump off because it hasn’t been removed yet and replace it with a brand new one Thank you We’ve got all of our accessories on it’s time to throw a serpentine belt on let’s do it Intake manifold time baby let’s go So I went to go grab our turbo and manifold off the shelf over there and I found this this is a fluid damper I love fluid dampers I didn’t realize we had one for this car and I found it so we’re gonna put it on so we’re gonna get this

Junk off and put this beautiful damper on Look at this gasket dude that’s a hot exhaust manifold gasket that’s a Grady exhaust manifold gasket that’s what that is first piece to go on our engine for the greddy turbo kit this is their turbo manifold very nice little bottom mount piece right here much better than the stock one

We have the turbo for our gratty turbo kit here so this is a Garrett this is a GTX 2867r gen 2. this thing is going to be a lot of fun on this S2000 engine itself let’s get this thing bolted up Foreign our f-22c1 is fully rebuilt and ready to go back into the S2000 we hung the greddy turbo kit off we still have a little bit of lines to run and some things to figure out with that so we’re going to be getting to that in the next

Episode but our engine is finished this thing is fully rebuilt new Rings new bearings new gaskets and seals complete all the way through the engine this thing is ready to fire up for its first time back in our S2000 so stay tuned for that in a future episode my question to

You is what engine should we rebuild next we did the F-22 we’ve done a 2J we did the 4G and we did an rb26 let me know down in the comments what engine should we rebuild this engine build Series has been a lot of fun I love rebuilding all sorts of different

Engines the Honda was an unexpected engine but fun nonetheless so let me know what you guys want to see thank you guys so much for watching as always don’t forget to like And subscribe and we’ll see you guys in the next episode Thank you