StanceWorks: Under Pressure: 80 Days To Truly Finish the K24 Ferrari

Under Pressure: 80 Days To Truly Finish the K24 Ferrari

Posted: 2023-04-14 14:05:03
Author: StanceWorks
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00:00 – Intro
00:22 – 80 Days to Go
00:53 – We Need Brake Lights
01:40 – Using Pressure Sensors… Remotely
03:50 – the Finished Installation
04:25 – We Need Functioning Headlights, Too.
05:34 – It’s LIT!
05:59 – EGT Sensors/Thermocouples
07:45 – Why we want these sensors
09:13 – Stealth Installation
09:47 – Designing a Retainer
11:15 – Thanks Send Cut Send! Get 15% Off in the Description
12:17 – Fuel Cell Vent
14:05 – Tow Straps
16:13 – SKF Race Wheel Hubs
17:25 – Seat Mounts, TPMS, and More
18:17 – Plans for the Roll Cage Build
20:24 – Outro

StanceWorks Video Transcript

Foreign Ready for competition because we are sending the car over to Australia for the world time attack challenge thanks to our friends at haltech and wtac now there’s a lot of stuff to get done in that amount of time including a full roll cage build and we’ve still got to

Get all of the tuning and testing on track because we haven’t even really driven the car yet but before we get there I’ve been working on getting all of the Loose Ends the last 10 percent that takes 90 percent of the time finished so let’s dive into it let me

Show you what I’ve gotten done to begin let’s talk about brakes at the start of the build we built our own pedal box using a tilt and pedal assembly to replace the original Ferrari unit and brake booster once welded up and installed we then mounted our brake

Reservoir and then ran hard lines to plumb the system we integrated dry brake fittings for serviceability at Each corner of the car and today we do have a functioning brake and clutch hydraulic system that effectively stops and starts the car what we don’t have on the other hand are

Functioning brake lights and as a world time attack challenge requirement it’s our first checklist item that I want to cross off the list now of course we could trigger our brake lights with a simple mechanical switch mounted to our pedal box but I like to take things a step further so we’re

Going to make this a bit more complicated I want to trigger our brake lights with a pressure switch kind of like this one but specifically meant for brake fluid our haltec Nexus R5 PDM and ECU combo can see these brake pressures and not only data log them so we can look back

At them later but we can also simply and effectively trigger our brake lights using the exact same wiring now we’re a little bit limited on space in the front of the car so I want to remote Mount these sensors so I fired up Fusion 360 and got to work designing

Something using some McMaster Car Parts so that we can build it true to life the end result is this it’s pretty simple but it should effectively relocate the sensors from the master cylinders themselves off and down to the side in the front of the car I then uploaded the dxf file to send and adjusted options like bending services and anodized Coatings so that we can get the exact part that we want but because I’m in a rush and have a deadline to meet I ordered some simple flat cut parts and they arrived within just a couple of days because I’ve got

The equipment to do it we can bend this one up ourselves by using Fusion 360’s McMaster Car plug-in we’re able to order the exact parts we imported into our CAD drawing and upon the arrival of our sun cut send parts we can assemble everything knowing it’ll fit perfectly the end result is a

Sensor relocation bracket that looks exactly like we drew and better yet it looks like a proper finished race car part I used the new bracket itself as a drill template for the chassis side and then drilled some holes and used rib nuts for captive Hardware making installation as simple as possible

I had the local hydraulic shop whip up a pair of hoses so that we can run from our massive cylinders to these sensors one for the front brakes and one for the rear both of my tilt and master cylinders have a secondary Outlet meaning we don’t

Have to T into a brake line for our sensor and instead can connect it directly to the master cylinder itself we could have just threaded the sensors into the cylinders but again they would have hit our Hood duct so the remote Mount is the solution now forgive the state of everything else

Under the hood I have yet to blast and paint anything but the plumbing is starting to look pretty fleshed out our new soft lines follow the hard lines down towards the center of the car and then route over towards our new remote mounted sensors of which we’re waiting

For the second one to arrive there’s still a lot of finish work to do up here but I’m happy with how it’s turning out more important than the looks is the function because we now have operable brake lights this is the first thing we can check out

The list for this episode and we can add a new metric for data logging to the list as well now while they’re not a requirement to compete since we’re on the topic of Lights let’s revisit our hello jumbo 220s that we mounted at the front of the car

They represent my alternative to pop-up headlights and they pay tribute in some fashion to the 288 GTO ever since mounting the Lights I’ve left the black and white covers installed to match the overall look of the car but underneath I had the guys at all City wraps add yellow laminex to the lenses

To change the look and give it a bit of flavor not only does the yellow pop against the white it also is a bit of a tribute to GT3 Class Cars in World touring car racing but while the chassis is wired for the headlights I never actually bothered to wire in the

Headlights themselves so I took them off and over to the workbench got out the Deutsch connectors and set them up so they’d integrate seamlessly into our Rye wire chassis harness The housings need to be modified so the wires can pass through but I don’t want to drill a hole big enough to pass the connector through so we’ll install the light and then attach the connector on the back side of the housing once plugged in we can check this off

The list too we’ve got functioning headlights now I know some of you are thinking there’s no way that those meet the minimum height requirement and therefore aren’t legal and to that I say yeah you’re probably right but honestly I don’t care I think if I get pulled over

These are going to be the least of my worries so let’s officially cross headlights off the list and then turn our attention back towards data acquisition they say you can never have too much to work from and thus we’re going to add haltex tca8 thermocouple amplifier to the Ferrari 244 gtk

This module uses thermocouples also known as exhaust gas temperature or EGT sensors to monitor the temperature of each individual cylinder as you might guess to install them we’ve got a modify our turbo manifold which means it’s got to come out of the car we need a welder receiving bung to each

Individual exhaust Primary in order for this to work now there’s a lot of information on the internet about where to locate these individual thermocouples and oftentimes they’re placed as close to the cylinder head as possible but what’s more important than the distance to the cylinder head is that all of the sensors

Have the same distance to the cylinder head we want to make sure that they’re receiving equally useful information now due to some of the twists and turns of my Turbo manifold I placed each sensor about two inches from the cylinder head and I placed each bung in

A place where I knew that I could weld the entire perimeter of the bung itself I back Purge the manifold with Argon gas for weld Purity and everything went according to plan until my welder decided to act up that is to say it decided to become a fountain

Now if I had had the foresight to fill my water cooler with Red Bull this would have been a welcome break from welding but instead this coolant getting everywhere isn’t going to work so I packed my stuff up and walked next door to Byron’s shop at like bow and used his

Welder to finish up the job the grinding in the welding did a number on the cerakote Finish but that’s fixable later down the line for now I’m happy with the placement of these ports and I spent a lot of time making sure they’re absolutely perfect but I’ve got

One trick up my sleeve that I want to show you once it’s in the car so let’s get these thermocouples installed now if you’re wondering why we want an exhaust gas temperature sensor in each primary the answer is that it allows us to monitor the health and efficiency of

Each individual cylinder allowing us to tune each cylinder individually O2 sensors on the other hand typically sample all cylinders or at least entire banks at once and this is fine for most applications but for a setup like this that we want to push to the Limit we

Want every safety measure we can get now the rules for depth placement on a thermocouple are different between n a and turbo engines and with ours we want about six millimeters protruding from the inside of the primary wall because we can’t see the tip of the thermocouples of all four cylinders I

Made index marks on each thermocouple so that I place them at the right depths despite not being able to see it from the flange the only remaining step is to route and clean up the wires and try to make these sensors look at least a little bit better

On the other hand we need to get the thermocouple amplifier mounted as well it’s this unit that’ll take the data from Those sensors and send it to our Nexus R5 ECU now I spent a lot of time trying to decide where I should Mount this and what kind of bracket I should make

Before eventually realizing the simple solution was to use my wing upright it was out of the way of any heat sources and it allows for easy installation and removal of the thermocouples in the event I need to pull the turbo manifold once again but now the manifold can go back in and

I can finally show you that trick up my sleeve it’s that I spent a painstaking amount of time making sure the thermocouples would be completely invisible from the top side of the car sure if you look from the correct angles you’ll catch a glimpse of them but in

All I’m so pleased with the way this installation turned out I took the braided thermocouple wiring routed it down the chassis and then plugged it into the TCA 8 so we can call this just about done but there is one last problem my tuner Andrew was quick to tell me

That these plugs can vibrate out of place there’s nothing to physically hold them into the thermocouple amplifier and that can pose a problem with high vibration cars now thankfully every single dimension on the tca8 is a perfectly round number which makes drawing it up in CAD as easy

As pie and so I did just that and then I measured up the k-style plug and Drew that into place as well so I knew what I was working with and then I designed a retention bracket to hold everything into place now there is some variation between

Thermocouple plugs so I decided to give the retention bracket slotted holes at the top side so we’d have some adjustability I made sure that the bracket would clear the wiring coming out of the thermocouple plug and then I added holes not only for Aesthetics but so that we

Could zip tie each individual wire so no stress could be applied to the plug itself I sent this little bracket off to send cut send and a few days later we had it show up as well now there’s no question that this is the overkill solution in contrast to

Something like some zip ties that Andrew suggested but if you’ve got the skills and the know-how why wouldn’t you go this route when it only costs seven bucks delivered now I don’t want to beat a dead horse here but this really drives home how

Much I love the use of fusion 360 or any CAD software as a tool in my toolbox it allows me to imagine Creative Solutions to literally any problem I can conjure and then I can execute those Solutions with ease now there would be a Finishing Touch for

This bracket and that’s if I had it anodized black to match the thermocouple module and send cut send offers that as a service too I just didn’t get it in time for this episode because I am rushing to get this done but that means that guys like you and me

Can make fully finished Real Deal race car level Parts stuff that looks like it came out of a catalog just by clicking your mouse it’s one of the best tool sets I have and so if you want to make cool Parts just like this one head to send

Stanceworks enter your email and you can get a 15 off discount code off of whatever you want to order you could build a whole car out of it so thank you to send cutscend for sponsoring this channel for sponsoring this build without them this car would not be

Finished it wouldn’t be going to Australia an intern thank you guys for supporting one of my favorite sponsors too and now we can cross the thermocouple installation off of the list as well our engine will thank us too because now we can know exactly what’s going on in each cylinder at race pace

Now let’s get back to the Motorsport Australia rule book because there’s another change we need to make if we want to be compliant with the open class rules one of the requirements is that all fuel tanks must be vented to the exterior of the Bodywork as it stands the original

Fuel tank vent sits open it vents into the engine bay as I have yet to do anything with it so I decided to buy a few components to build the best vent hose assembly that we could starting with a one-way check valve if you look at the back side

There’s an arrow that demonstrates it only Flows In One Direction this will allow the fuel cell to pour air in as it pumps fuel out preventing a vacuum inside of the tank itself and at the same time it will prevent Fuel and fumes from venting out of the vent port

And into the atmosphere now I’m building this vent hose out of PTFE and line just like everything else we’ve done but I’m capping it with this cute little hose barb on the end of it we’re going to install a tiny air filter as a Fail-Safe in the

Off chance we somehow suck air into the fuel cell I don’t want any dirt or dust going with it and then finally We’ll add one final fail safe to this fuel hose by way of adding several Loops in line the idea here is that if our check valve

Somehow sticks open fuel is unable to slosh around up and out of the vent hose it might be Overkill but I’d rather be safe than sorry I routed the hose from the cell up and over the driver’s side rear tire and I have the filter mounted at the back of the car

Now whether or not this meets the requirement of exterior of the vehicle I’m not sure but we have enough hose in our Loops to move it around if we need to with that it’s another requirement officially crossed up the list prepping us for our trip to Australia and now for another one

This time around the rulebook States all vehicles must be equipped with both a front and a rear tow hook and no I’m not going to send cut send my way through this problem although I did think about it for a few instead I found these Fia legal Sparco toe straps

However there is one small problem no disrespect to Sparco but I’m not a big fan of The Branding on them thankfully the patches are only attached with simple black thread so removing them should be a relatively trivial effort now I want to iterate again Sparco makes

Great stuff and that’s why I bought it but as most of you have probably noticed at this point there is only one brand on the outside of my car my biggest sponsor h r now that’ll change soon because I am planning on a livery for the world time

Attack challenge but even that will be for sponsors and sponsors only so we’ll keep them clean and tidy The Branding has come off and now we can install them on the car and thankfully I was way too lazy at the time to remove the original bumper shock studs from the

Chassis of the car they make a perfect reinforced mount for the tow straps both front and rear I think I prefer the clean toe strapless look but I do think this will look pretty good once it settles in but for those that aren’t a fan rest assured it can tuck behind the rear

Panel or if you want to make it go away entirely we can simply fold it up and tuck it into the chassis The mounting Provisions up front are exactly the same we’ll reuse the original bumper shock studs this was by far the easiest project so far the overall look I kind of like I think the red pairs well with the yellow lights and the Amber Corner lights and the hint of color is nice against

The stark white vinyl it’s a cool race car touch and at least I can say it’s a requirement if it’s going to be mounted to the car but with that said if we’re going to be driving on the street I want to do the same Hideaway method with the

Front toe strap thankfully it can fold up and Tuck into the chassis and I’ll make a retaining clip to hold it there when not in use up next on our list is not a requirement for the rules but instead a requirement for myself in this box we’ve got a set of brand new

SKF Corvette race hubs and if you’re thinking but Mike you’ve already got hubs on your car well you’re totally correct I didn’t really want to buy these especially considering they are a painful two thousand dollars but it’s common knowledge in the Corvette World that factory hubs will

Not hold up and these are a requisite for racing they’ve been on back order for ages but they finally arrived and the timing is perfect just in time for the car to see some real abuse I ordered these equipped with extended ARP studs and equipped with internal wheel speed sensors which will be

Perfect for integrating traction control and abs later down the line the only problem is these are meant for a Corvette and therefore are five by four and three quarter lug pattern and as some of you might remember we converted the Ferrari to 5×114.3 or 5 on four and a half

So apart they come and over to Nimo machine they go so that Brett Walker can convert them and we can get them installed I’ve got a few half finished projects in this episode that we’ll dive into further in the next one first on the list is new seat mounts that’ll bring

Our seat about an inch and a half closer to the pedals as it stands I struggle a bit too much to press them completely I’m also repurposing one of the original wiper assembly holes as a power isolation switch we’re required to have one inside the car and outside the car

To comply with open class rules and I think this is an awesome place to put it it’s also about as close as we’re going to get to the base of the a-pillar which is what is required last on the list I’ve got a TPMS system that will give us both tire pressure and

Tire temperature at all four corners of the car it’s not quite on par with an infrared scanning system but it’ll still give us a lot of information about what’s going on at all four corners underneath us so we’ll get it installed and integrated now believe it or not there’s still a

Bunch of other stuff to cover in this episode the biggest one being here in a little over a week we’re gonna drag the Ferrari up to Sacramento to my former business partner Riley stair shop RS Motorsport because we’ve got to tackle a full roll cage build to meet the rules

We have to have minimum a six point roll cage with door bars roof bars and all that jazz and Riley is the single best fabricator that I know and you can build a roll cage faster than anybody else on planet Earth as far as I’m concerned so

I’m gonna enlist his help because I want this cage done right I want it to turn out absolutely perfect and I want no room for interpretation about some sort of DIY cage that Tech inspectors don’t like Riley knows what he’s doing this is what he does for a living

Once we get the roll cage done we should be ready to head out on track plus or minus a few small things like alignment and spring rates but before we go out on track and before we get up to Sacramento there are other things that we’ve got to

Tackle I’m going to try to get them all done within the next week or week and a half the big one is I want to get sway bars on the car or at least a front sway bar I’m working on a pretty trick setup for those of you that know my interest

In DTM cars and what have you I’m working much like an E30 M3 has on an internally controlled adjustable sway bar system so levers inside the cockpit that allow you to adjust the stiffness of the sway bar from inside the car don’t know if it’s legal for racing if I

Have to remove the levers during racing that’s fine I don’t care it’s going to be sick I’m so stoked to show you all of the thought process how we’re going to pull it off and hopefully get it done inside of a week we’ve also got power

Switches we’ve got to put on the car isolation switches so one on the outside one on the inside we’ve got to wire all of that stuff in and a lot of other details the next episode or two are going to be very intensive on fabrication we’ve got a lot of stuff to

Tackle with that said make sure you subscribe if you haven’t your support means a ton to me and I don’t want you to miss what’s coming up because everything from here on out is going to be pretty sick anyways enough rambling I’ll catch you guys next week thanks as

Always for the support I’ll see you then