StanceWorks: Turbo K24 Ferrari: First Dyno Session!… And Now I Have to Pull My Motor….

StanceWorks Video Transcript

Foreign you might expect me to be pretty disappointed that the first Dino session has ended with me pulling the engine out of the Ferrari again but honestly I’m in a great mood as Shane from stuff made here says if at first you don’t succeed just lower your expectations until you

Are a success and that’s what I’ve done honestly we’ve learned a bunch we’ve got some teething issues to sort through the biggest one being the clutch is slipping which means the engine had to come back out of the car to fix it I don’t know who designed this thing it’s terrible

Engineering but anyways I feel really good about making some changes and improvements while this engine is out but before we get to that in the next episode let’s rewind see what prep I had to do to get to the dyno and see how that first Dyno session went

In the last episode we made a number of changes as we prepped for the dino such as relocating our fuel pressure regulator to the rear bulkhead and setting up our vacuum regulator for the valve cover so we’re going to pick up there and finish off a few more things

Since everyone loves a nice pair of jugs we’ll start here and obviously I’m talking about water to fill our intercooler system for those not in the know we’re using a CSF water to air intercooler system on this build due to its serious increase in efficiency over a standard air-to-air intercooler the

Only problem is we haven’t added fluid since we powered up our pumps which gave us the ability to bleed this system properly because most sanctioning bodies ban the use of traditional coolant we’re gonna go with some water wetter and some good old-fashioned water but before we can

Get the system completely full we’ve got to remove the bleeder plug that we added in many episodes ago this port on top of the intercooler is a requirement due to the fact that the intercooler itself is placed so high within the system itself but once water

Comes out of that Port it means that we’re good to go up at the front of the car I cracked the bleeder screw on top of the CSF heat exchanger and with water coming out there too I feel pretty confident in saying we’ve got no air pockets left in the system

I’m also quite impressed with how little I spilled during this whole ordeal and now we can cross our first thing off the list the intercooler system is completely bled up next we’ve got a job that isn’t necessary for the dyno but is necessary in every other aspect you might notice

The fluid is a little bit low on our Reservoir and that’s due to a faulty gasket in the upper half this was something I wanted to address before SEMA but the gasket was on back order everywhere that I could find it since fluid wasn’t leaking if the car

Didn’t experience any major g-forces I didn’t have to worry about it but after pulling the original gasket I did find a defect on the first cylinder so the new gasket is an easy fix another thing crossed off the list step down we do have some open holes in the top of

The transmission that haven’t been an issue until now when we’re going to spin the transmission up to speed the first one is really easy it’s just the reverse light switch I track down the right one and installation took only a moment on the other hand there is a hole on the

Back side of the transmission that is meant for a vehicle speed sensor after not being able to find a sensor that actually fit in the hole I just bought an M20 bolt and we’re gonna make a plug using the trusty old angle grinder I cut it down to a more appropriate length

Cleaned up the end on the lathe and then added a Crush Washer for a good seal we can cross this off the list as well but some of you guys are obviously wondering hey don’t you need a vehicle speed sensor well buried deep on the transmission down on the side in an

Almost inaccessible area is this little blue plug there were no good angles of removal or reinstallation so all I can do is show you the plug and the sensor that replaces it and with that we’ve got a hall effect sensor installed on the side of the transmission

For good measure I decided it was a good idea to check our spark plug gap and spark plug Health before we head to the dyno so I pulled cylinder number one and made some observations as expected with the bass tune this thing is running really rich but that’s easy to sort out

I checked the Gap and we’re reading at a good 24 thousandths so back in it goes along with the other three in the last episode we relocated our fuel pressure regulator but we didn’t relocate the fuel pressure sensor which is located on the opposite end of the fuel rail

For the health of the sensor itself and to remove a potential leak point I want to relocate this sensor to the fuel pressure regulator so we pulled the line remove the sensor housing and reassembled thankfully our turbosmart fuel pressure regulator does include a provision for a fuel pressure sensor so relocating the

Sensor itself is quite easy but we’re going to get lucky with the wiring harness too because it’s long enough to reach the new sensor location meaning we don’t have to make any modifications this is a plug and play change our sensor is going to last longer and we’ve increased our fire safety

With the fuel system apart it’s also smart for us to check our fuel filter I want to make sure that it doesn’t have any particulates from the tank or any sand from the sandblasting process that may have made its way into it but thankfully it looks good so we can seal

It back up and reinstall the rest of the fuel system And because we’ve run the engine a decent bit at this point the last thing I want to do before we head to the dyno is to check the health of our engine we’re running pennzoil’s Ultra Platinum full synthetic and our oil filter housing will allow us to see the health

Of the oil without actually opening the engine up a Schrader valve on top allows us to pressurize the filter housing and force the oil through a screen this will reveal metal particulate or bearing material in the event we’re experiencing premature wear but thankfully the Pennzoil is doing its job and there is

Nothing we wouldn’t expect to see in this filter housing but to be completely thorough I actually drained the oil in the car and took a look at what was in the catch pan there were no shavings whatsoever and the pearls suspended in the oil is

Exactly what we’d expect to see on a new engine in the break-in process based on what we see here I feel really confident leaning on this engine over the next couple days while we rely on Pennzoil for protection I tackled everything that I could think

Of to make sure that this car is truly ready for the dyno and with everything crossed off the list it was time to load it up onto the trailer for the following day although this load up process does make me realize I would love an easier to

Load setup maybe an enclosed trailer if I could find the right one skylines Galore finally we are back at animal Auto for the first time in nearly a year it’s here that will be working through the Kinks and the teething pains and then eventually laying down some big

Power as we work through the tuning process of the 244 gtk getting the Ferrari mounted two animal Autos Hub Dyno was not necessarily an easy task it required removal of the housing of one side just to clear the Bodywork but with that out of the way the car was

Suspended and ready for the tuning process it’s Andrew Molina that owns the shop and will be working his magic to put in the long hours that are needed to get this car running perfectly I couldn’t begin to describe what it is that he actually does as he clicks these keys

But I know that it’s my job to make sure that the car is ready to hang with him but as one might expect there are a lot of trials and tribulations that come with a fresh build that’s completely untested and even more so for its first day on the dyno it’s unsurprising that

Our first day did not go without a handful of problems as evidenced by the extreme amount of smoke coming from my tailpipe off camera we did quite a bit of diagnosing before realizing exactly what the problem was in the last episode I worked to fix an overflowing Problem by

Adding a hose to our breather Port of our oil scavenge tank I was under the impression that that combined with adding some run time once the car was shut off to the oil scavenge pump itself would keep this tank from overflowing in the future but it turns out we’ve got a plumbing problem

If you look closely at the lower hose of these two the one that feeds the pump from the tank you’ll notice that it crosses over one of the chassis rails this High Point in the line created an airlock and kept the pump from functioning properly which meant the

Tank was overflowing and as you saw on video was then blasting out the turbo after we rerouted the line under the chassis it solved the problem and then we moved on to figuring out why the cooling system wasn’t cooling properly they were plagued by an almost identical

Problem an air pocket in each line as it crossed over the front wheel we couldn’t reroute those hoses but we did work some magic to get them bled of air and then the cooling system began to work we also wired in some fans and suddenly our engine temps were right

Where we wanted them to be we closed down our plug gaps just a touch and finally the car was starting to run pretty dang well we spent an entire day and a half on the dyno But ultimately we were still met with one major issue you’ll have to listen for that problem but

Unfortunately my microphone got peaked during this run so it’s gonna sound terrible and it’ll blow your speakers out but if you listen closely in any case you will hear what I’m talking about the engine surges under load sound is not ideal and I’ll let Andrew explain what the problem is

So yeah long exciting day on the dino um seems like we can’t load up the uh car pretty well after 5500 when we really start to get into some power the car just starts to to Buck on us um looking at the data here we’re

Looking at the RPM trace and it it it looks clean everything looks nice and and smooth but we’re jumping you know 6 800 RPM back and forth this is the the Bucking if you will um and our manifold pressure is looking nice and steady I don’t see any any drop

Off or anything like that but um just the way that the car feels it looks like we might need to investigate the clutch and being that as a twin disc we may need to look at the the throwout bearing and make sure that it’s shinned properly

Um other than that we add a little bit of more hiccups with the cooling system you know getting it burped uh a little more revisions drawing board but I think uh you know round two we should have all our ducks in a row sweet good to go but yeah

Uh a lot of bugs worked out long night good morning and uh we’ll see you in a couple a couple days Andrew did analyze the rest of the data along with the dynagraph and confirmed we do indeed have some sort of clutch issue nothing in the tuning suggests any sort of problem

While I would have been excited to make some serious power numbers on the dyno this is about how I expected our first session to go and as said as long as I’m willing to look at the upside we have learned a lot these are all expected

Hurdles that you would have on a fresh build like this but the car is running better than ever and I’m confident once we get back to the dyno we’re gonna make some serious progress but at the moment we’ve got to go backwards and undo all of the

Progress we made in the beginning of this episode by pulling the engine out of the car yeah unfortunately the clutch job on this is an engine out service there’s no way to access it with the engine mounted into place and to get the engine out of the car literally

Everything else in the engine bay has to come out too the dry sum system the tank every line the turbo the manifolds front and rear literally all of it’s got to come out Florida so let’s talk about what the potential issue is as Andrew said we need to check if the

Throwout bearing is spaced appropriately and the throwout bearing looks something like this it’s a hydraulic one that slides over the input shaft of the transmission and presses on the fingers of the pressure plate to disengage the clutch there does need to be an air gap between the pressure plate and the throwout

Bearing when your foot is not on the clutch pedal getting this correct does require a lot of measurements and it’s something we did in one of the previous episodes so I feel like I got it right but there’s always a chance I messed up if there’s not enough space between

These parts we would experience clutch lip like we saw earlier in the video but with the engine out of the car it’s pretty easy to take a peek inside compress the slave cylinder with a screwdriver and see what kind of Gap we’re actually working with

If there is a gap we’ve likely got an issue with the clutch discs themselves now it was borderline impossible to get a camera in there to see these parts as well as get light pointed at it but with a bit of camera manipulation you can

Make out that there is about a 100 000 air gap which is what we’re looking for so let’s talk about what that means So based on what I’m seeing through that little window in the transmission originally meant for the clutch Fork is that this throwout bearing is not the

Problem there is a gap present which is what we want and I also don’t have any spacers behind this thing I really don’t think that this is our problem we’d have to machine the back of the throwout bearing in order to add more Gap that seems kind of crazy clutch Masters and

Sisters no way we should have to do that so what comes next well I’m going to pull the transmission off and actually look at the clutch disc surfaces and see what that tells us and then I’ll probably take the entire clutch and flywheel and pressure plate combo down

To clutch Masters and have them actually break away test it and see if there is an issue because they’ll have a better answer than what I’m going to come up with just kind of guessing for it so that’s what’s going to be in our next episode then we’ll get the whole thing

Put back together and back in the car but in that next episode I’m also thinking about making some other changes some improvements while everything is apart I don’t want the car to be apart any longer than it has to be but I don’t want to miss an opportunity to make a

Big change while I have the clearance to do it and what I’m thinking about is how to utilize these right here we were talking earlier about some of the cooling system issues we were having with bleeding the whole thing and I’m thinking about running the radiator engine coolant lines through the middle

Of the car instead of the intercooler and instead isolating the entire heat exchanger intercooler system to the back of the car and putting those coolers right here the heat exchanger with a fan and then using the NACA duct on the door way up there to actually route air to

That cooler so that we have positive airflow through it as we’re driving will it work I don’t know but I think this is probably a worthwhile change I’m going to start kind of turning my gears seeing what I can come up with I think it’s probably worth trying to do because

It’s going to make serviceability of the car a lot easier and I think it should work just as well maybe even better so we’re going to give that a go I’m going to start planning that out that’ll be in our next episode and with any luck by next week I can

Have the whole car back together we’ll get back over to the dyno deal with some more bleeding woes I’m sure as we get the whole car hot but in all I think these are changes worth making the car is running great otherwise I’m excited I’m in a good mood

It’s an opportunity right we learn from the failures I’m totally fine with this Dyno session being a little bit of a of a failure because that’s where you learn the most with all that said I’m done in this episode it’s been a while since I’ve put

It on an episode I need to get into the office and start editing and put something out for you guys so that’s a wrap thank you guys as always for the support I’ll catch you at the end of the week or next week