StanceWorks: The Last 10% Takes 90% Of The Time…. Honda-Powered Ferrari!

Reading Time: 14 minutes
Posted: 2022-08-09 13:54:47
Author: StanceWorks
Laser cutting and bending by SendCutSend – For Fast laser cut parts, click here:
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Be sure to support our friends at H&R Springs for helping bring this Honda-swapped Ferrari project to life:

Last but not least, check out the rest of the gang that helps to make this project happen:

00:00 – Intro
00:21 – Tell Me You Haven’t Built A Car Without….
00:48 – Splitter Mounts – Fabrication with Send Cut Send
02:47 – How The Mount Functions
03:48 – Mounting the Splitter
06:28 – The Turbo Oil Sump Tank and Hoses
08:18 – Engine Intake!
10:57 – TOOLS! A Brake Cleaner Spraying Thingamadoodle
12:00 – Removing Old Parts
13:07 – Adding New Supports
15:19 – Support Installation
16:19 – Why I Slowed Down
19:18 – Outro

StanceWorks Video Transcript

Uh Nothing says i’ve never built a car quite like complaining in the comments that this project isn’t done yet but for everybody that knows how this stuff goes you know that the last 10 of a build takes 90 percent of the time now thankfully i think we’re further than 90

In we’ve got less than 10 left but the things on our list are going to nickel and dime our time to death so the only way to get to the finish line and get this thing driving down the road is to keep chipping away at it so let’s get to it

Surprisingly it’s been over three weeks since our last ferrari episode and that is without a doubt the longest break we’ve had we left off in the last episode having finished up the design phase for custom quick release mounts for our front splitter i had a few design constraints

That i wanted to meet and this is where we landed somewhere between then and now all of our laser-cut parts arrived from centcut send and now it’s just a matter of putting it all together we’ve got a mix of mild steel and aluminum parts each serving a different

Purpose in different places on the car obviously steel is needed to mount to the chassis itself while aluminum is used to keep the weight down where we can the first order of business is to actually weld up the brackets that are going to attach to the splitter itself

And i got these pieces in both steel and aluminum but we’re going to start with the steel pieces because i can keep the weld profile lower and i know the hardware will clear whatever welds i put on it we can put the aluminum counterparts on after we’re finished with final mockup

Next on the list is to build the parts that are going to go through the splitter a way for us to physically attach these brackets to the carbon fiber we’re gonna pass bolts through the splitter and into these weld nuts that we’re gonna weld the two oversized washers

I think these would do the trick but some of you guys did suggest to laser cut a structure that can go underneath the splitter to help distribute the load and it would still have the same advantages of not having bolt heads hanging down that can get ground down

I really like that suggestion so we’re going to do that further down the road and use these for mock-up the last thing that we need in order to assemble the splitter mounts is to machine some guide pins and to put it simply these are what will carry the load that the splitter generates

Initially i had just considered welding bolts to the bracket but i think having these turned down pieces will be a much nicer finished result i turned them down to be a tolerance fit to the bracket itself pressed them into place and then took them over to the

Workbench and did a rosette weld on the back side with everything assembled i can finally show you how this bracket’s going to work the rear hook grabs on first and then the splitter can rotate up and then is guided into place a pit pin locks it all together and

Keeps the splitter on the car i’m really happy with how this turned out and i think it looks pretty professional and i want to remind you guys that you can make parts that look just like this with send cut send and i’ve even got a 15 percent discount code

To make making parts like these even cheaper But our design does have one flaw it’s that technically the pit pin is a little bit too long we could solve this problem by simply machining a spacer for the back side of the steel but i’d rather come up with something a little bit more simple

In one of my cabinets i found a box of assorted springs and happened to find some that fit on the pit pins perfectly with the spring in place the pit pin now clamps the parts beautifully and i don’t have to worry about it rattling nor do i

Have to worry about the splitter having some sloppy movement so now we need to install these parts and that means removing the aluminum brace that we added many episodes ago as cool as it is it’s going to be in the way for actually welding on the steel braces for the skid plate itself On top of that there’s still a lot of bits and pieces attached to the ferrari chassis that it came with from the factory i couldn’t tell you why they’re there but now’s our chance to get rid of them and clean this thing up it does feel a little bit like polishing

A turd because the ferrari chassis is absolutely terrible but why not make it as nice as we can since it’s not much work With the paint cleaned off and the surfaces ready to weld we can actually test fit the part for the first time but i was a little bit too confident when i designed this part and didn’t check my work and the result is a part that doesn’t fit

This is likely because i used a paper template and didn’t follow up to make sure that i measured everything correctly paper is a lot less rigid than metal as you can see if we have the bottom lined up down here there is a gap at the top or a gap on the bottom

Uh i i could do some massaging and get this to fit but then we’re going to lose our parallel lines because i’d have to cut you know kind of an angle from this point down to the other one with an increasing amount cut off as you go down so

It would wind up looking bad or at least i know that it would be that way and i don’t want to uh scab this in to make it work i want it to be right so let’s uh scrap this and do it again lots of you guys are definitely going to say dude

What does it matter it’s under the car it’s a bracket just massage it make it fit and i did think about doing that i cut this one you can see that top is a little bit thinner but as said this isn’t the right way i’m losing material that i’m welding to

It needs to get cut more it’s not going to be straight and i’m just not going to be happy with it i’m not going to put it on the car i don’t need to rush this there’s no reason to do that i’m not under a time

Crunch and if i do it this way it’s going to bug me even if it’s under the car even if nobody else sees it after this episode i’m not going to be happy with it so we’re going to scrap this we’re going to do it again and yeah i’m bummed about that that’s

Kind of screws me for what i wanted to get done so in that case let’s move to the back of the car and work on our oil scavenge tank we didn’t finish it up i’ll talk about what we’re going to do let’s get it plumbed in let’s get that knocked off the list

A few episodes ago we built a scavenge tank this is going to collect oil from the turbo and allows the scavenge pump to send it back to our dry sump tank but as some of you guys pointed out we didn’t add a vent to it so we need to

Pull it back out of the car add a vent and make the lines so that it’s plumbed to keep this simple i’m just adding a port to the top rear corner of this thing instead of using an an port though i decided on npt threads which gives us a

Few more options in terms of what we can actually install here ultimately i think we’re gonna go with a hose barb with a line run up towards the top of the car and a filter on the end the raised filter and end of the hose should help prevent any leakage or

Spillage during high g-force turns With the tank reinstalled now we need to make the hose to plumb it in i finally bought a set of new soft jaws for a-n fittings after the others were marring up every fitting that i used as always i’m using an fittings from vibrant performance thanks to their ease

Of assembly you can install the hose in the ferrule by hand and then it’s just a matter of using a wrench to assemble the fitting itself Because we’re gonna have a diffuser underneath the back of the car in the future i decided to run this hose over the chassis member it creates a bit of a high point but i don’t think the pump will have any problem with it with these hoses done and the barb

Installed on top we can finally cross this thing off of the list and move on to the next project but we’re not going very far we’re going to stay right here with this turbo we really need an intake and an air filter and i’ve been trying to decide

This entire time exactly how to accomplish that we don’t have much room to route intake piping away from where we are now so it’s a bit of a decision on how to just best handle a situation once again i want to use a vibrant hd clamp to actually couple the tubing to

The turbo just like we did on the outlet i know we’ve covered vibrant hd clamps before but they’re so cool that i can’t help but at least talk about them for a brief moment and i say this as somebody who paid for them not was given them

Hd clamps work by utilizing a pair of ferrules wrapped in o-rings which are then inserted into a union sleeve finally an aluminum locking collar locks the entire assembly together they’re a replacement for a silicone coupler and hose clamps but the positive side is that they have an 800 psi burst

Pressure they can withstand 400 degree intake temps and they have some freedom of movement which means you can solid mount your components like an intercooler and still allow your engine to move on its mounts without breaking everything lastly they don’t require any tools to remove which makes serviceability as good as it gets

Now let’s get this thing attached to the turbo the intake is huge this is a four inch hd clamp which requires four inch piping that means along with the turbo manifold and the exhaust we’re going to need to build another intake when we swap to the

Smaller turbo later down the line so i’m not going to spend too much time trying to make some ornate or beautiful intake because it’s not that big of a deal the only real requirement for this thing is to get up and away from the turbo and

Try to get to the opposite side of the engine bay as the exhaust itself that’s where most of our heat will come from I’m only going to tack everything together for the time being because we need to pull the turbo housing back off of the car to fully weld both ferrules so we’ll do the intake at the same time Now i know once you guys see this thing in place some of you are gonna feel the need to comment about how i’m sucking in hot air because the intake is in the engine bay but this thing’s gonna work fine don’t sweat it so much ideally we’ll just pull some air in from

The wheel well and it’ll have a fresh supply now it’s time for a new tool and this one is one you need to add to your collection we all know the feeling of running out of brake clean and having a can run dry and this tool solves that problem

Entirely it turns out you can buy brake clean by the gallon in fact you can order a 55 gallon drum of it if you really feel a need to with this sure shot tool you can actually fill it up and then using shop air you can pressurize it whenever you need to

And that’s kind of like having a cheat code for unlimited ammo if your ammo is brake cleaner and if you’re like me you’ll go through a lot of it My first real use for it was getting all of the oil off of our lines and fittings after i disconnected the oil pump for a scavenge tank earlier in the episode but it turns out if you drain all of that oil into a cup and then kick it over

While you’re filming it does a great job of cleaning your floor as well All right enough of that back to work the next project on the car requires removing the rear wheels because as plenty of you would probably guess there’s still a lot of stuff in here we need to get done embarrassingly the original soft lines and hard lines for the rear brakes are

Still installed on the back of the car i never bothered to remove them earlier in the project so better late than never we need to get them removed and thrown in the trash With the lines out of the way we can actually cut the original mounts off of the chassis our new rear brake lines don’t go this far back in the car so we’re not going to reuse them now flashback some of you guys might remember when we cut some chassis

Members out of this car for axle and engine clearance all the way back in some of the very first episodes of this build in the episodes that followed we did add quite a bit of structure back into the car but there is a bracket that we designed and never actually installed

It’s been well over a year since i’ve seen those templates so we’re going to start over design some new templates and get some structure reinstalled on the back of this car with all the improvements we’ve made i’m pretty confident the chassis is going to be stronger than it ever was before

We’re going to make these out of some scrap 8-inch plate steel that i had sitting in the shop and as is necessary with everything that sits around here we’ve got to knock the rust off with the templates transferred over to the steel and then the steel cut up on

The bandsaw we can finally use our brand new disc sander At least that was my hope until it started shaking violently and then throwing smoke out of the side of it I don’t know much about this thing in terms of how it works i don’t know electric motors at all but there’s apparently a break inside of this and it’s stuck on i have tried wiring it every possible way i can’t get it to turn off it might just be like

Malfunctioning might just not turn off but yeah there’s a break this doesn’t want to spin so that’s our problem back to the drawing board back to the tiny little ryobi belt sander so we’re back to old faithful and while it is slow it always does the trick

Cleaning up the edges of eighth inch plate steel is a bit time consuming but as always it’s best to let the sander do the work don’t try to force it or you’re just going to create problems for yourself i decided i wanted to put dimple dies in

The middle of these plates at least just to make them somewhat visually interesting and admittedly a little bit stronger because this is an abstract shape i just eyeballed the center drilled the holes and then went over to our arbor press and got them punched the dies that i have will actually punch

The proper size hole in them and only require a half inch drill to be passed through the plate initially but because of that they do deform the plate if the plate is too small like you see here but we can remedy this by simply taking the bottom half of the die flipping the

Whole thing over and pressing it back the other direction Now in order to get these things welded in we’ve got a clean old paint off of the chassis it’s also best if we get the welds from those old brake tabs ground down and get all of this stuff smooth now to answer the question that i know

Is coming yes eventually we’ll get the entire engine bay stripped and painted but i don’t want to do that until i know we’re done with every bit of fabrication it’s pretty low on the to-do list as it’s definitely not going to help us get this thing to drive

With the first plate tacked into place it’s time to get the other one installed the only problem is i made them both late on a sunday with a desire to go home so it means i dimple dyed it the wrong direction and then i did it a

Second time so i had to make this thing three times before i got it right but the outcome is looking pretty good and i decided to dimple the holes outwards to match the fuel cell strap in the engine bay in case anyone sees both at the same time

I do think we’ll need to modify the driver’s side for clearance but i’m only going to leave it tacked into place until we have our axles to confirm alright guys that is it that’s all i have for this episode if you like this episode please leave a like if you

Haven’t subscribed yet you should those methods of support help me and help other creators like me so if you like the content somebody’s making whether it’s me or anybody else leave a like and subscribe those show the youtube algorithm that you like what they’re doing that you support that type

Of content and it helps creators like us grow and we can keep making videos like these with all that said i have some closing thoughts for this episode i did name it the last 10 takes 90 of the time for a reason i’m at that point in this build where it’s the

Last 10 percent and it’s all small relatively boring things the jobs that are left aren’t big exciting ones there’s not oh we get to start the car up or oh we’re going to fabricate this big cool piece there are still big jobs left to do especially driving the thing but it’s

All checklist items at this point and it’s a matter of just chipping away at it getting through it and this part of the build can be very frustrating it can even be demotivating it’s not really burnout that’s not the right word i’m still excited to work on

The car but the reason i share this sentiment if you will is because i truly believe to be relatable i think anybody that has built a car like this of really any scale you’ve been here and if you’re thinking about tackling a project like this you’re gonna feel this way it

Happens and i’m sharing it because i think a lot of other youtube channels probably gloss over this aspect of a build there is a very real sense of yeah i don’t know frustration or maybe you’ll feel burnt out things like that but the only way to get through it is

You’ve got to keep chipping away at it your project won’t get done unless you finish it it’s the only way for it to happen and honestly that’s probably why i’ve produced less 308 episodes lately i’m at this point where the jobs aren’t as fulfilling as those big exciting ones

And it leads me to feel like some of these episodes are kind of dragging on at this point and so i need some feedback from you guys if you’ve made it this far in the episode i’m sure you want to see everything that i produce if you haven’t made it this far

I don’t know we’re going to have a survivorship bias in my answers here but i’m just trying to decide how much of these small details i continue to show do i space out these episodes focus on things like the audi and make the 308 episodes a bit more packed like this one

Do we try to keep going once or twice a week let me know what you guys want to see i just want to make sure that i’m producing what you guys want to watch i mean at the end of the day i’m going to produce what i want to produce and i’m

Going to do the things that i want to do it’s just a matter of figuring out how to divide up that time so that you guys enjoy it too and i’m producing content that everybody is excited about not just me so leave me some feedback leave some comments let me know

If we want to keep focusing on the really tiny details it’s going to take to get this thing finished up i’ll keep showing them otherwise i’ll space these episodes out and we’ll see what kind of big chunks we can cross off the list with all that said i’ll catch you guys

At the end of the week we’re gonna work on the audi i’m excited for it thank you guys so much for the support i’ll see you then You