StanceWorks: Honda-Swapped Ferrari: Back In Action With a New Clutch, New Cooling System, and More.

Honda-Swapped Ferrari: Back In Action With a New Clutch, New Cooling System, and More.

Posted: 2023-01-13 14:30:32
Author: StanceWorks
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00:00 – Intro
00:24 – Recap
01:20 – Modifying the CSF Radiator
02:33 – Mounting the Expansion Tank
03:38 – Sheet Metal Hole Saws!
05:04 – You thought we were done cutting up the Ferrari?
06:15 – Cooling System: Complete
07:05 – Recap #2
07:42 – Measuring for Clutch Clearance
09:12 – Dropping the Engine In
11:12 – Driveshaft Shop Axles
12:14 – Haltech Boost Control Solenoid
13:24 – Topping up with Pennzoil
14:26 – It Lives!
15:48 – End of Episode Thoughts

StanceWorks Video Transcript

Thank you for those that missed the last episode of the Ferrari build we left off on a little bit of a cliffhanger we aimed to address some of the cooling issues we were facing at the front of the car mainly dealing with air bubbles that arise from the fact that our coolant

Lines run through the Rockers and then up and over the front wheels creating high points that have proved to be a challenge to bleed the air out of effectively instead of going with an off-the-shelf solution I decided to buy some raw materials and make something of Our Own

I turned some aluminum down on the lathe so that we could make an inline Dash 20 bleed Port this was a perfect opportunity to brush up on my aluminum TIG welding skills so I burned them together and then we transitioned over to building a coolant expansion tank

Because the car didn’t have one in its last iteration by hooking these bleed ports up to this expansion tank we now have an effective way to fill and bleed the system at the front of the car but we’re not done yet so let’s get back to work

In addition to adding a steam port to the top of each coolant line I want to add one to the uppermost corner of the radiator as well because it seems like there’s guaranteed to be a bubble here unless we do something about it the easiest solution is to just add

Another Dash 4an Port here and Route it to our expansion tank another Avenue for steam to escape and to make sure this entire system is filled with water for the first time in a while I had some serious trouble with contamination on this weld I assume it’s due to the fact

That I was unable to clean the back side of the aluminum and I have had coolant run through this radiator at this point but everything seems to have worked out and I’m hopeful it’s going to seal up just fine now for a flashback all the way to one

Of the very first episodes of the build series when we mounted our CSF radiator the crossbar at the front of the car to hold the radiator up was tacked into place but in that time I have never fully welded it but with the cooling system empty and the radiator out what

Better time than now so let’s knock it out and cross it off the list once and for all reaching the lower radiator Mount was a bit more of a challenge but it too is now welded up and the radiator is firmly mounted into place now we need to mount our expansion tank

So I opened up Fusion 360 and Drew a bracket now obviously this could be done with good old-fashioned pen and paper but once you’ve learned how to use CAD design software it makes this process so much more efficient I drew this bracket up in only a handful

Of minutes and then folded it flat and printed it out on the printer as a result we have a template that’s going to fit as long as I got all of my measurements right there’s no human error or wheelie lines and I know that if I copy this template we’re gonna have

A pretty part when we’re done all we have to do is follow the template to the letter with the drawing cut out I mounted it to a sheet of aluminum traced it out and then Center punched all of the holes that we need to drill

I then stomped it on a shear and then shaped it using the now working Disc Sander I’ll selfishly say that if you’re enjoying this episode or the build itself please consider subscribing because your support helps this channel grow and keeps this project moving forwards

Now we need to drill a large hole in our sheet aluminum and if you’ve ever tried to use a hole saw for this process you know how awful it is which is why I’m excited to show you guys some sheet metal hole saws specifically for this purpose

The Wider teeth on this bit made by Blair keep the bit from grabbing the metal and potentially damaging it as you’re trying to cut it it also doesn’t dance around and it creates a perfectly finished hole every time these are one of the most valuable things I’ve added

To the kit in the last number of months foreign just try getting it cut that nice with a traditional hole saw because it ain’t gonna happen now from this point I could have used our template to make the side panel but I decided to Freestyle it just a bit

Because I wanted the panel to wrap around the bottom side to give it a bit more rigidity overall if this tank is full of water it could get pretty heavy and I don’t want it to snap off the mount on that same note I welded a rib to the

Back side of the mount to keep it from flexing in any direction and following that I inserted the rib nuts into the top side so that we can finally bolt this thing into place passion I wouldn’t call it my best aluminum welding but it’s definitely good enough

For who it’s for most of it will be invisible in the car anyway and I think it’s going to be plenty strong enough to support this coolant tank as we’re hopping curbs at button Willow now there is one hurdle left to clear for this tank and that’s that the

Fiberglass firewall within the Ferrari is going to prevent us from installing it the tank is just too tall to fit within the space that we have if we want the hood to close and I think closing the hood is pretty high on the list of priorities cutting the hole in the firewall isn’t

Too worrisome because we’re only expanding a hole that was already there and I can come back later at any point and close it up once we get to that point but for now I want to make sure that the cooling system is functioning properly and this is a critical step

With enough vertical height we can confirm that everything does indeed fit and now we can move to installing the dash 20 inline steam ports that we made in the previous episode the scary part is that requires cutting the coolant lines that are already in place hundreds of dollars worth of hose

That runs through each side of the car that if I mess up would cost a lot to fix thankfully there is some margin for error because we’ve just got to take about eight inches out of the middle of each line enough to put new fittings into place so that we can section in

These steam Port fittings the process is the same for both sides of the car cut hose insert fitting and then hook the steam Port up to the expansion tank and now not only can air escape the high point of the cooling system we can also backfill it with

Water we now have a functioning cooling system at the front of the car once again in retrospect there were a lot of different ways that we could have solved this problem at the front of the car some of you guys suggested something like a vacuum cleaner which I raised

Some concerns with and obviously we could have changed our pump setup or rerouted the lines but honestly I think this solution works well because it solves multiple problems in one we can use this setup to bleed the car and to fill it because we have a filler neck at

The back of the car as well it should eliminate any problems we have from here on out now let’s rewind one more time and get up to speed on the current clutch situation if you missed it when we were on the dyno we had some clutch issues

Causing some surging in the Driveline so we pulled the engine and then took a closer look at what’s going on within the transmission initially we assumed that it was a problem based around clearance between the hydraulic release bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate but once

We took a bunch of measurements we realized that might not be the case instead what we found was that every single spring on both clutch discs was broken this happened as a result of the fact that the clutch was shipped to us with one of the discs installed backwards but

Thankfully clutch Masters was more than happy to get us set up with two brand new unsprung clutch discs a better suited fit for the transmission that we’re using however even though I know all of the parts are assembled correctly this time around I still want to make sure that

The clearance for our hydraulic release bearing is perfect so I spent all day measuring double checking and then triple checking every measurement possible spending all day doing this Probably sounds like an exaggeration but trust me it wasn’t because the measurements I was getting weren’t quite what I wanted to see you see the

Instructions suggests that I should have somewhere between 80 000 and 120 thousands air gap between the release bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate but the most that I was seeing was somewhere around 20 to 30 thousands if we don’t have enough Gap we could experience a similar clutch slipping

Issue to what we had the first time around on the dyno and I really don’t want that but I called the guys at clutch Masters and confirmed everything that I was seeing on my end and they told me bolted together and send it so I’m gonna trust

Him and hope I don’t have to go through this whole rigmarole again I’ve got one more part to install before we actually drop the engine into place and that is an upgraded wasp Billet starter not only is it lighter than the original unit it is a work of art in comparison I feel confident this thing will keep us

Starting whether we’re on the road or on the track and it’s certainly an upgrade from the factory unit and with that the engine is finally ready to go back in the car and believe it or not this has been an agonizing weight the past few weeks have felt like

An eternity and it was starting to feel like this might never happen it was hiccup after hiccup but here we are it is actually going back into place and thankfully Khalil was around Elena hand with the engine in I wanted to go through and give the oil filter housing

A thorough cleaning if we open this thing up we can actually see all of the particles that have been caught before the oil enters the oil filter I’ve showcased this filter housing in several previous episodes and finally you can see exactly what the screen looks like fortunately pretty much everything

Caught in this is just rubber particles from when we made our lines and everything looks to be in pretty good health it’s nothing I wouldn’t expect to see on an engine after a first start and partial Dyno session getting the engine to sit back into

Place was only the first step in a long list of jobs now Begins the slow process of installing literally everything else back in the engine bay to get the engine out it seems like everything has to come out before it which means everything from oil lines to the exhaust system the

Turbo the charge piping the intercooler every hose every wire you name it it all came out thank you Thankfully everything in the car has been out at least half a dozen times at this point so I know most of it like the back of my hand the only remaining trick is to remember exactly what order everything does get installed it’s possible to go out of order and find yourself doing and

Redoing steps over and over thankfully I only misstepped once or twice on the whole reinstallation of all these parts so we’re doing pretty good at this point that does bring us though to our drive shaft shop thousand horsepower axles the passenger side of the car goes into place without a fight there’s enough

Room to insert it into the car without removing any components however if we go to the other side of the car there’s a different story step one is to get that pesky rotiform Roch out of the way unfortunately from here we’ve got to remove the upper control arm from the

Chassis in order to swing the knuckle out of place we need this much room in order to slide the axle both into the transmission and into the splined wheel hub in all it’s not truly a ton of work but it definitely makes this side of the car a bit more of a challenge

Next on the list is the car’s charge piping which in the past has been difficult to fit into place I have to assume that it’s just because things move around when you weld them but this time around things fit better than ever before so maybe an r r in the engine was

A good thing I do have something new to add this time around and that’s how Tech boost control solenoid we wouldn’t have been able to get really far into the tuning process while we were at the dyno last time without this but instead of installing

It on the fly now we can do something at least a little bit more streamlined instead of having a long pigtail hanging off of this thing I’d like to mount it somewhere close to where the harness itself terminates Rye wire has our engine harness set up for a Deutsch connector and thankfully

That’s exactly what haltech provides with this kit so it’s more or less Plug and Play as for where to mount it I might be getting a little bit lazy but there’s already a perfect mounting provision for where we have our vacuum regulator for the valve cover

It’s up and out of the way of any heat sources and as said it lands right where our harness terminates so I think this is a good spot it’ll look a little bit better once I re-plumb this with some an lines later down the line but this is going to work out great

We are getting closer and closer to the finish line and now I need to change the end on our starter wiring to a ring terminal so that it can fit our new wasp starter I should have done this before I put the intake manifold in but oh well

And now with all of our lines tightened up we can fill the car with oil only this time we’re gonna make a change after talking to the team at Pennzoil we landed on their Platinum racing 10w60 formula which should do an even better job of meeting the insane demands our

K24 is going to make but because this is some special sauce if you will it only comes in a five gallon bucket and because I’m not the Hulk I can’t pour this directly into our dry sump tank so I spent a little bit of time transferring it over to some

Smaller bottles and then got to filling our dry sump tank with two and a half gallons due to both the capacity of our oil system and the complexity of the oil itself I have no doubt that we’ll be able to push this car to the absolute limit

With the oil in and the oil system primed we are finally ready to start this car once more the final step is to Prime the fuel system by turning on the ignition [Laughter] Deal Dino Time one that smells amazing and two that never gets old I still get so stoked hearing it run and I know some of you guys don’t like the way that it sounds but everyone that’s heard it in person so far says it sounds nuts I can’t

Believe the presence this thing has so anyways I think at this point we are ready to go to the dyno I’ve got a couple really tiny things that I need to do I honestly have not put coolant in it yet so I gotta bleed this whole new

System a couple of little bolts that I need to tighten up and it’s Dino Time next episode should be barring any major snags on the dyno I’ve already talked to Andrew we are ready to go back and I’m stoked so I’ll see you guys then thanks

As always with the sport catch you next week all right end of the episode thoughts for anybody that made it this far in I figured I’d add this in at the end uh for some of that relatability or honesty that some of you guys come to this channel for

The last week or so of working on this car has been maybe one of the most challenging mentally since I got started uh a handful of days before Christmas Emily and I both got sick she tested positive for covid I did not but who knows what else it could have been

We spent a week out of commission and then we took our annual kind of Christmas camping trip we did that we were gone for another week and then I came back I’ve been trying to get everything back into order working on the Audi honestly it’s been probably

Three weeks since I touched this car and all I’ve been looking towards kind of facing when I get back into it is just putting the engine back in the car having to hook up all of the plumbing get all the wiring back in just all this monotonous stuff that’s not rewarding

That I’ve done a hundred times already that’s just work and I’ve got to film it all and make it all happen it’s just been a challenge to do it’s just I haven’t been motivated and it’s just been a slog a huge slog now I feel better now that it’s done but I wanted

To share that because that’s how this stuff goes sometimes I’m not looking for sympathy I don’t need any any consolation I’m sharing because I want you guys that have your own projects out there to know you’re not alone and feeling this way it doesn’t matter who

You are how big your project is how excited you are for the finished product at times I mean trust me I’m looking forward to get this thing over to the dyno and now that it’s all together that’s in the immediate future I’m excited again but sometimes those steps

That you have to go through while working on your car just suck there’s no two ways about it and so I figured I’d make sure I iterated that I deal with that in here too so you’re not alone if you’re looking for that motivation to get your project done as I’ve said many

Times before the only thing you can do is just pick up the tools and force your way through it no one’s going to build your car for you but I promise if you do that you’ll get your momentum back I’ve got mine do your best to keep your

Momentum up to and I’ll uh yeah I’ll catch you up next week thanks